Friday, November 12, 2010

Monkeys and Mountains-Shimla!

We are currently in the little city of Shimla. It is 7000 feet above sea level and on the foothills of the Himalayas...an absolutely amazing place with breathtaking views! Our meditation course has been pushed back and we are enjoying ourselves so much here that we've decided to stay on.

 After taking a local night bus through the very twisty and EXTREMELY narrow roads, I was counting my lucky starts that we had arrived alive! In a crammed bus, squashed between belching, horking, and whatever other terrible manners and smells one can imagine, we gradually climbed higher and higher into the mountains. Literally inches from the edge of what seemed like a million foot drop-without any rails or walls to stop vehicles from going over the edge, I held onto Des with my white knuckles squeezing so hard, I nearly broke his thumb! Somehow, there is a system to the madness, although I can't figure it out. We would literally be head on with another bus and somehow they knew they wouldn't crash- the driver as cool as a cucumber as he chatted away to the person next to him, maintaining polite eye contact the whole time. He would overpass other vehicles for 4 blind bends in a row using a green flashing light and  red flashing light as if it made a difference to our safety!

 I must say though, the stars were absolutely brilliant on the way up. It was amazing seeing the constellations from a completely different angle! And the twinkly lights of the cities as we passed in the shadow of huge hills and mountains left us excitedly anticipating the sunrise where we could see where we actually were!
Anyway, we arrived safely and hauled our rugsacks up the very very very steep roads by foot at 12 am to find the YMCA. An hour and a half later we reached the doors and I have never been so happy to see a bed in my life.

The following morning we were gob smacked as we entered the eating area and had a panoramic view of the city on the edge of a mountain surrounded by layers of other mountains on the horizon--and the Himalayas in view!!! What a place to eat our breakkie.











The city itself looks very European as it was where England controlled the commonwealth for several months. Even now, the army is very prevalent and patrols Shimla all night long. Back in the 40's during the colonial rule, it was where the English travelled to during the hot summer months--an escape from the heat and obviously stunning. I have seen photos of when it snows here (usually around December) and it looks like a fairytale! It is so refreshing to be in a place that is primarily very clean and has little pollution. Des and I went for a jog this morning and my lungs literally ached after ten minutes...I'm sure from the altitude but also from the intense pollution we have been subjected to over the past little while.

I nearly lost my mind from excitement when I saw what I thought were dogs roaming the streets but they turned out to be monkeys! (Rhesus macaques) They are everywhere here and it is unbelievable taking the time to watch them interact up close with their very human like mannerisms and social situations. I wish I could steal a baby and take it away with me. I love they way they cling to their mothers stomachs as they walk and jump. They really are such a funny creature...full of mischief--such messers!

We hiked up to the Jakhu temple today which is dedicated to the Hindu monkey god. Up there, there are hundreds of monkeys and apparently they steal off people so we had to hire a walking stick to shoo them away--we didn't encounter any problems. At the top (which you can see from the whole city) is a massive orange statue of the monkey god. (Apparently designed after the giant Christ in Brazil). There were even more mind blowing views at the top as we could clearly see the Himalayas and used a telescope to get even closer. Des was in his element!

View from Top of Hike


Shimla

Shimla at sunset



Freezing at night! Des sleeping in his toque! 

Des playing pingpong with the locals! Everyone wanted a turn playing with him! 


Toque head after a night out in the cold

Monkeys and Me!

Posing straight faced like a lot of Indians seem to here


Starting the uphill hike




Des and monkey!


Yesterday, I was nearly boiling in the eyes with frustration for the first time since being here. I was trying to send birthday gifts back to my loved ones in Ireland and everyone I went to for help at the post office kept sending me on to other people. Customers were blatantly budging in front of me (We have experienced this lots since being here, but I just can't stand the rudeness of it!) Then we were told that we can't send things unless we go get a white sack from the market. How random is this? We had no idea what they were talking about or where in the huge market to get one so we asked if we could use an envelope and they said yes....but they didn't sell any there so we had to wander until we found a stationary shop. After filling the envelope and sealing it with post office glue and taping the thing to death--it looked soggy and like it wouldn't make it out of Shimla, let alone to Ireland so we had to go on the hunt for a box...in and out of clothing shops until we found a sweater box---but we couldn't find labels for it anywhere and the post office supplied nothing. Grrrr.... Finally after asking a man in a book shop, he cleared the necessary requirements up for us. We had to go to a tailors (which are everywhere in the market here and do absolutely beautiful work) and get them to sew us a white cloth envelope to put the box in. Then we had to take it back to the book shop and seal the seams with old fashioned candle wax stamps and then write the address on the cloth in black ink marker. This was our only hope of it getting to Ireland. What an ordeal! Sorry everyone but no more gifts will be sent from India this year!
What the envelope and wax stamps looked like as the finished product! 
One of the brilliant tailors sewing Carelia's gift

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Mr. Narinder Singh of Chandigarh

In the Sikh temple eating the offerings with Mr. Singh
Sitting on a real camel in rock garden
Covering our heads in orange in the  Sikh temple

Narinder reading Punjabi book to me

Narinder and us eating our delicious samosas in the high rise political office!

Narinder giving Des a brochure on Shimla

The lake in Chandigarh

Hand painted timetables at the bus station


Narinder reading Des Punjabi

Wall made of ceramic recyclables

Me and my KFC balloon gift from Mr. Narinder Singh










Little people statues made of old waste


Bird made of colourful bangle bracelet parts
A couple days ago we had one of the best days yet here in India thanks to Mr. Narinder Singh! While in Chandigarh we decided to check our bags in at the local bus stop in order to wander the streets bag-free before leaving that afternoon. While we were contemplating our route, an old man approached us. "I want to welcome you to Chandigarh and to India!" as he placed a bright orange piece of fabric on my shoulder. "My gift for you!" Based on most of the people that had approached us up to that date, we were dubious of his authenticity to really just want to welcome us, as most people that give "free" things or time here want to be rewarded. However, something about him made us resist from shutting him out right away and instead gave him a chance and had a conversation with him.

"I want to help you see Chandigarh. God gives me a hobby now that I'm retired. I want to save you from beggars and men won't follow you or stare when I with you and I want to show you how to get things for very very cheap. You work and save for this trip but people here see you and think you rich. I am trying to get affordable hotels back for tourists here." (This was after paying way too much for our little filthy room the night before---although we hadn't told him this).

It turns out Mr. Singh worked under the secretary of parliament (or something along these lines--was involved in politics anyway). He is 74 and now retired earning 20,000 rupees a month as his pension, (not quite 350 euros) something he seemed proud of and says is enough to get him and his wife by. He had met Margaret Thatcher and they even shared letters following their encounter...all of this was delivered from him in a detailed way, and he was a very intelligent man. He carried with him 2 full bags of documentation, letters and brochures. His prized possession seemed to be this hand made notebook of pages taped together containing letters from all of the happy tourists he has assisted over the years.  He has been mentioned in many local newspapers as well as the New York Times which he repeated to us many times---something he obviously is extremely proud of.

And so we opened up our faith in the human race to Mr. Narinder Singh. The day was unbelievable! He took us to many political friends of his and offices. The first was a sky rise apartment where we drank chai tea on the top floor as well as tried our first, and most delicious samosa here as well as a couple other snacks. The food was delicious and it was nice feeling for the first time like we got a very fair price...in terms of what locals versus tourists pay anyway.(25 rupees for everything--a few cents)

He took us to meet the secretary of parliament and we had tea and a conversation with him. He was very disappointed in how when he went to the States and Canada to visit his daughters that are living there, he was constantly mistaken as a Muslim and that people saw him as a potential terrorist.(He is Sikh). We then went to the local library and the whole time walked everywhere around the city. "A man must walk 10 km a day and then won't have heart attack" said Mr. Sing. The whole time he kept saying that he wanted to make us happy and "if you happy then I feel happy in my head" as he pointed to the middle of his forehead. He kept wanting to present us with gifts and so took us to KFC where he got both Des and I a balloon! Very sweet gesture I must say. We giggled about it with Mr. Singh and he said "the older I get, the more of a child I become!"

He popped in and out of shops getting us free sweets and took us into a beautiful sweet shop filled with all sorts of Indian sweets and came out with free samples for us. His goal was to give us a cheap day.
At one point, early in the day, we did say that we didn't need a guide but he reaffirmed what he was saying that "I don't want any money or anything from you, only to help you! If you happy then I am happy" and he grinned his big toothless grin---how could we resist?

The most amazing part of the day for me was going into the Sikh temple (he was a Sikh man himself). We took off our shoes and he gave us cloth to cover our heads with. He then took us to a long carpet where we sat down cross legged and held out our two hands as a man in the temple came and fed us naan, dahl and aloo soup. We then went into the temple where he showed us around the temple and some of the books written in Punjabi. The whole time he insisted we take pictures and he wants us to send them to him.

He referred to me as "my good daughter" and kept saying that des and I were making him very happy. He also insisted I keep the bright orange scarf to cover my head--"very very beautiful and this way people won't stare so much," he said.

He then took us to the beautiful rock garden that we were going to see anyway had we not met him. It is a garden that was created by a man who is friends with Mr. Singh that turned all the waste and garbage (ie-recyclables) into art. There were beautiful waterfalls and walls made out of old colourful ceramic plates. Walls were made out of old rice sacks and bottle caps were made into little statues. Old bangles bracelets were made into colourful birds and there were big swings, laughing mirrors and camel rides (sat on a camel there!).

Following this, we went to a lake--a lovely lake, although man-made, where people were boating and there were faint mountains on the horizon. Mr. Singh took me into the canteen and showed me how a dosa is made (the thin Indian pancake which I had told him I liked). He then somehow got one for us complementary! "My good daughter, you take this now and share it with your man. This will make me very very happy!"

He was eager to have us ask him as many questions as we could think of--he wanted to share his wisdom. I asked him what his wife thought of him being out everyday helping all these tourists as a hobby until ten pm at night and he replied that "it is very good because I talk too much and otherwise we would quarrel. I like to watch the news on our television and she likes to watch her programs. It is better this way."

I will never forget Mr. Narinder Singh. Indeed, he lived up to his word and did this all out of the goodness of his heart--and a letter with some photos. He was such a refreshing person to meet here. He has a wonderful and contagious laugh and he lit up at the end of our day when he told Des the name of a rose in Hindi (he had been teaching us Hindi words and sentences all day while we walked) and Des replied to him that "Andrea is my rose--except said rose in Hindi." He kissed us both and shook our hands vigorously and said we had both made him very very happy and told us that everything he had said came from his heart. He then took us back to the bus station and got us on our bus and wished us all the best of luck in the future and kissed us again. WOW! is all Des and I could say to eachother. What an amazing man.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Dusty Delhi

Delhi was definitely an unforgettable place to visit but 4 nights there was more than enough. The pollution, noise and congestion--and little nautre or places to escape all of this made us happy to be moving on in India! We spent our last couple days and nights there seeing a bollywood movie in the cinema and eating popcorn that was freshly popped in a clean environment, yet dust particles were visible all over it--- I lost my appetite but Des went back for seconds! It was a great experience being the only foreigners and wathcing a movie with all the locals with no idea of what was being said (obviously movie was in Hindi and there were no subtitiles). The singing, dancing and comedic major over-acting was brilliant and we got the jist of Gomaar 3---especially with the laughing cues of the audience!

We roamed the Bazaars (permanent market place) and the colours and fabrics amidst the rundown dusty streets was candy for the eyes! We took a time-out from the buzz to grab lunch in the middle of it all- atop a rooftop outdoors cafe-from there it was amazing just to watch and see how everything is such organzied chaos!

We had some beautiful meals--talhi (naan and little tasters of many different Indian dishes and chutneys) and dosas (thin south indian pancakes) are favourites so far.

The streets of Delhi will not be forgotten but also not missed. (Atleast not yet). Seven year olds walking around out of their mind as they huff a small bag of glue or whatever cheap chemical was getting them high. Men sleeping on very thin walls of bridges and heaps of cow dung that is deliberatly made into what look like flat hamburger patties set aside for burning. Very efficient use!

We caught the local chicken bus out of Delhi and headed North for Chandigarh. On our way we saw even more depths of poverty on the outskirts....houses made of everything and anything you can imagine. Tin walls, cloth roofs and doors, cement walls with 2 of the 4 missing, old bricks--basically anything that provides shelter. We also saw loads of basmati rice fields and the big overfilled trucks carrying hundreds of sacks filled with it. We saw houses in the country (ish) that had heaps of different brighlty died fabric in big piles left in the sun to dry. The bus took pit-stops to little roadside outdoor shops where local food was being cooked (some covered with flies) and jars of unknown food were being sold that reminded me of something out of a 1900's museum. After the break the bus had to be restarted by opening up the compartment inside that held the engine and poked with a broomstick that was stored behind the driver--obviously the only sure way to get it going! Hanging beside the driver at the front was a picture of the Sikh god with flashing lights and a clock--all in one.

After nearly 6 hours on the  bus we arrived in Chandigarh and we found immediately that smiles were easier to evoke out of locals than in Delhi. As we went out at night for our special treat (1Kingfisher beer each) we watched the locals seemingly happily cook their gourmet dinners on little stoves along the streets. On the way back these same people were neatly lined up outside on the cement in warm looking beds in the same spot with blankets under and over them.

We went on a hunt for the cheapest hostel or hotel in the area and ended up in Punjab Palace which was an absolute kip! Infested with ants and mini-cockroaches and  a mattresses that were so thin and holey we had to sleep sideways...we also used our mosquito net just to ensure nothing crawled over us at night as there was a "skylight" in the bathroom that was a big square hole with a few pipes covering it. They would not supply toilet paper (thank god we brought our own) or towels---they gave us cleaning rags instead...atleast they changed our sheets and pillowcases at our request! We laughed about it.

Here are a few photos from Delhi:
Delhi parliament buildings
Des at the gates of the Parliament building
Streets of where we stayed in Delhi

Holding snakes

Restaurant stalls made out of old auto rickshaws

Streets of Delhi


Streets of Delhi

Des infront of our beloved hotel the Chand Palace

Women in the Bazaar with their bangle bracelet stall

A beautiful Indian family that asked to take their photo with me--the novelty of a white westerner!

In line waiting to go into the Bahai Lotus Temple for meditation

The Lotus Temple

Gardens walked up to the Lotus temple

Kids playing cricket with bricks as wickets

Hindu temple in Delhi

Behind a wall in Delhi

The corner of the main Bazaar

Beautiful materials being hung to dry

Delhi at sunset

Me and Golden Ghandi at the Ghandi museum